I want to lay pavers to create a back patio and need to know if I have to put down crushed rock as a base?
It would be a good idea to put 4 inches of crushed rock down as a base once you’ve finished digging. Then you’ll want to compact the crushed rock using a manual compactor and rake until level. Bedding sand should be placed on top to ensure a smooth base for the pavers. This procedure provides the foundation on which the pavers are laid and will help with any heavy rains and provide a good surface for installing them. If you don’t own a compactor, it’s easy and inexpensive to rent one from The Home Depot’s Tool Rental Center.  

My yard is small and has hard soil. What can I do to loosen it?
A good way to start improving your soil would be to aerate it, which loosens the soil and opens it up to oxygen and moisture. You can rent a core aerator from The Home Depot Tool Rental Center to get started. It will pull little plugs of soil and sod right out of the ground, leaving holes. Then apply a 1/2-inch layer of compost over the entire area. Clay soil is often harder and can be loosened by working in amendments like sand or mulch.  

What are the main differences between the mulches available in-store?
Probably the biggest difference is that natural materials, like bark mulch and pine straw, slowly break down and as they decompose they add nutrients to the soil. Stone and rubber mulch don’t break down––meaning they last longer (you don’t have to replenish them as often) but they don’t improve the soil quality.  

How can I get rid of poison ivy?
These weeds warrant strong measures. Your best bet may be to spot-treat with an herbicide from Roundup, available at The Home Depot. Be very careful when applying to prevent harm to desirable plants.  

I am looking for a beautiful ornamental tree for my front yard, preferably one that will flower in spring or fall. Do you have any suggestions?
Crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia) is a popular choice in the South because they have a long bloom period, from mid-summer to fall. Apple, cherry, flowering pear and other fruit trees are fragrant spring bloomers in both the North and the South. Magnolias have a shorter bloom-time that varies from spring to fall depending on the climate, but are still a favorite because of their large, showy blossoms. You’ll also find spring-blooming varieties of dogwood (Cornus) to suit most regions.  

My backyard slopes and over time the erosion has created a canal. Any suggestions on what I can do to use the space effectively, while concealing the obvious dip?
You could create terraced gardens, which are flat-topped sections running across the slope. You could also build a rain garden by digging a shallow bowl for the water to collect in. Then plant water-loving plants, such as lady fern (Athyrium) winterberry (Ilex) blue lobelia, bee balm (Monarda) and arrowwood (Viburnum). Since these plants are native to wetland areas, they will thrive with wet feet. A soggy site also welcomes beneficial wildlife such as butterflies, dragonflies and frogs.  

I want to build a tree ring, however was told that building up soil around the tree trunk will cause tree rot. How can I avoid this?
If you’re building a tree ring around an existing tree, it’s best not to build up soil or mulch higher than 2 inches near the trunk since tree roots growing near the soil surface require oxygen and are easily smothered. Instead of filling in the space within the ring with soil, you can fill it in with a dense groundcover, Scott’s Nature Scapes mulch, available in-store, or plants such as hostas that thrive in the shade.  

I have some little grubs that live in the soil, and they’re eating my plants and tomatoes. What can I do?
They could be slugs. Check plants in the cool of early morning and look for them on the plants and tomatoes; they leave a silvery trail as they move. The easiest ways to control slugs or grubs on your edibles is to hand-pick them (wear gloves because they’re slimy) or trap them. Since they’re on your edibles, be careful when using any pest-control products.  

How do you properly stake new trees?
You’ll need 3 stakes that are 10–12 inches long, wire and some rubber tubing to string the wire through to protect the bark of your tree. Pound the stakes into the ground, 4–6 feet from the trunk, in a triangle around the tree. Link each stake to the trunk with the tube-wrapped wire, 3–4 feet from the ground. Then run wire from stake to stake to keep them upright. Make sure there’s equal tension among all the stakes, not so tight as to pull the tree in any single direction. There should be a little play in the wires, so the tree can move a bit. Be sure to check the wires every month or so and loosen when necessary so they won’t make marks in the bark. Stakes can be left in the ground for a year or 2, until trees are established.  

I purchased serveral perennials only to findout that the flowers do not last too long. I would like a recommendation of perennials that bloom at different time of the summer so that I will always have blooms of flowers throughout the summer. I like the color purpule, red, yellow, pink,orange..... Please advise. Thanks!
Here are some long blooming perennials to consider: Achillea (Yarrow) Bloom Span: 3+ Months; Achillea will grow almost anywhere, but it actually favors dry, lean soil. If given too much moisture or rich soil, the plants can become floppy. Deadhead spent flowers for repeat bloom. After the second bloom, rejuvenate the plant by cutting back to new growth. Campanula (Bellflower) Bloom Span: 2+ Months; There are many species of Campanula or Bellflowers, all easy to grow and relatively long lived. They perform best in areas with cooler summers or in partial shade where the summers are more intense. Most Bellflowers will readily self sow. If they start to look tired and ragged after several blooms, shear or mow them down to a few inches and they will grow back fresher. Coreopsis (Tickseed) Bloom Span: 3+ Months; Coreopsis are undemanding plants, but short lived. Either allow them to self-seed or divide the plants every 2-3 years and replant the newer, outer sections. Once the initial buds have completed blooming, sheer the plants back by 1/3 to encourage new flower buds. Dicentra formosa & Dicentra eximia (Fringed Bleeding Heart) Bloom Span: 3+ Months Unlike the common bleeding heart (D. spectabilis), cultivars of the fringed species will repeat bloom for most of the summer. D. formosa is a western native while D. eximia is able to handle the heat and humidity of the eastern U.S. The fringed bleeding hearts are smaller plants than D. spectabilis and the flower is not as pronounced a heart shape, but the gray-green ferny foliage and abundance of flowers make it a prize. Echinacea purpurea (Coneflower) Bloom Span: 2-3 Months; Having a long bloom period is just on of Echinacea's many attributes. Coneflowers are extremely drought tolerant, attract birds and butterflies and the intense color adds punch to any garden. The tall stalks are self-supporting, unless they've received so much water they become floppy. They require good drainage and full sun. Deadheading will prolong the bloom period. Gaillardia (Blanket Flower) Bloom Span: 3-4 Months; Gaillardia's yellow petals around a burgundy center are impossible to ignore in a garden. All they ask is full sun and they will keep on blooming all summer. Too mush shade and the stems begin to flop. In most cases, deadheading is not necessary for continual bloom, but it can make the plants look tidier. Kniphofia (Red Hot Poker) Bloom Span: 3+ Months; The spiky, bottle-brush flowers of Kniphofia are beacons for hummingbirds. Although they look like tough customers, Kniphofia actually requires a bit of winter protection in cooler zones. They are also a bit fussy about liking moist conditions in the summer, but well-drained soil for the winter months. Full sun is generally necessary for ample blooms. Liatris (Gayfeather, Blazing Star) Bloom Span: 3 Months; Liatris are easy to grow and texturally unusual. The thin, spiky leaves jut off the stems all the way to where the rosy-purple flower spikes begin. Unlike most spiky flowers, Liatris blooms from the top down. Liatris can handle just about any type of soil, but the richer the soil, the more likely they'll need staking. They'll grow in full sun or partial shade. Liatris is long lived and doesn't often require division. Nepeta (Catmint) Bloom Span: 2-3 Months; Most people think of Nepeta as catnip (Nepeta cataria), a somewhat weedy garden plant. But there are many excellent ornamental Nepetas that will bloom throughout the summer, if deadheaded. Most have some shade of blue-lavender flowers and gray foliage. They are very drought tolerant and make a nice substitute for lavender, in areas where lavender won't thrive. Although not as attractive to cats as catnip, you may still find a cat or two rolling around in your plants. Rudbeckia (Black-eyed Susan) Bloom Span: 3 Months; Rudbeckia are at home everywhere and many are native to various parts of North America. They prefers well-drained, somewhat lean soil and full sun. Deadheading will prolong bloom and cut Rudbeckia flowers will last a long time in water. With their flat landing pad petals, they are attractive to butterflies and the seeds will be eaten by the birds during the winter. Scabiosa (Pin Cushion Flower) Bloom Span: 3+ Months; Scabiosa is a unique looking plants with a low growing rosette of narrow leaves and a profusion of gangly stems topped by pincushion flowers. They are relatively easily grown in average soil and full sun. Deadheading is a must for long bloom and general appearance. Sedum (Stonecrop) Bloom Span: 2-3 Months; The taller sedums are unparalleled garden performers. Sedum 'Autumn Joy' is a near perfect plants, looking good for 4 seasons. Sedum flower buds are attractive long before they are fully in bloom and long after they have gone to seed, so there is no need to deadhead. They thrive in well-drained soil and full sun. Tradescantia (Spiderwort) Bloom Span: 3-4 Months; Tradescantia doesn't get much respect, probably because they can become a bit aggressive. However, they will readily bloom in partial shade and can be easily controlled by pulling young plants or by crowding them in with other plants. They have somewhat grassy like leaves with clusters of 3-peteled flower heads. Each flower lasts only one day, but there are so many buds the bloom period is quite long. They prefer cool, moist soil and full sun, but will accept partial shade in exchange for the cool soil. Veronica spicata (Spike Speedwell) Bloom Span: 3-4 Months; Veronicas start blooming in the spring and keep going through frost. The genus includes a broad range of plants, but V. spicata is most popular in gardens. The low growing dense foliage gives rise to narrow flowers spikes in blues, reds, pinks, whites and purples. Deadheading will keep them going all summer long. Drought tolerant, Veronica likes a well-drained soil. Hope some of these plants find their ways into your garden this year. Enjoy!